This is what happens to young plants when they’re not kept watered in a hot summer. Image courtesy George Weigel

Some plants can go longer without water than others, but all need it sooner or later before they wilt, drop their leaves, and/or die.

New plants are especially at risk because their under-developed roots simply don’t have the “straw power” that a bigger, more mature plant has to draw soil moisture from deep and wide.

New plants also are undergoing the shock of transitioning from the ideal nutrition, protected environment, and friendly potting mix of nursery care into the harsher condition of your yard.

That can be a cruel transition, too, especially if the insults include a ride home in the hurricane-force winds of an open pickup bed, being planted too deeply in brick-grade clay, and smothered by excess mulch.

Young plants with their tender leaves and branches also are prime targets of thirsty, hungry mammals.

With all of those potential pitfalls, it’s no wonder young plants can have a high summer death toll.

What can a nurturing gardener do?

Step one in heading off summer mayhem is reconsidering those plant sizes at purchase. Although it’s tempting to save money by choosing the smallest plant size possible, larger plants with larger roots are more forgiving.

That’s not to say that little plants are a bad idea. Get them over the initial hump, and they can establish nicely and economically. Just keep that soil consistently damp for at least the entire first season in the case of perennials, for two to three years in the case of shrubs, and for three to four years in the case of trees.

A good option for aiding small plants is a holding bed, which is a small, protected bed with good soil. There you can coddle new plants for a year or two before placing them in their permanent home. Fence the holding bed to protect newbie plants from marauding animals.

If you can’t add a holding bed, another option is growing young plants in a container for a season before planting them.

Mophead hydrangeas show stress by wilting quickly if they’re planted in a hot, full-sun site. Photo courtesy George Weigel

Right plant, right spot

Step two is doing enough homework to get your new plant in a spot similar to its native home.

You’ll help nurse any plant through its transition – and into the long term as well – if you get the sun-lovers in the sun, the shade-preferrers in the shade, and the damp damsels out of parched places.

Improve that soil

Step three is fixing that awful clay or other poor soil. Few gardeners are blessed with naturally good gardening soil.

Go as wide as you can with the loosening and improving. Think planting beds instead of planting holes.

Good timing

Step four is timing. Summer planting is doable for container-grown plants, but again, you have to be super-vigilant with your watering.

Planting earlier in the spring or even the fall before gives plants a chance to put on a few weeks or months of root bulk before facing that first punishing summer oven.

If you’re set on planting in summer, at least do so during a cooler, cloudy spell or in the evening instead of the middle of a hot sunny day.

Also helpful is erecting a temporary shade screen to keep the hot afternoon sun off a new transplant for the first few weeks.

Young plants don’t need a lot of water in summer, but they need it often and close to the roots. Image courtesy George Weigel

Stay on top of the watering

Step five is keeping a close eye on soil moisture. Get a rain gauge, and check the dampness a few inches down regularly. Your index finger works as well as anything. Or invest in a water meter if you prefer gadgets.

Pay special attention to new plants near big trees. Those big tree roots can easily out-compete baby roots for moisture.

If you can’t stay on top of things with a hose or bucket, invest in a DIY drip-irrigation system or a sprinkler or two hooked up to an automatic timer.

The good news is that you don’t need tons of water to keep a new plant alive and happy. Since the roots are limited and shallow, you can focus water fairly close to the root ball.

The goal is to keep the soil consistently damp just outside the roots and just below. Expand your watering area and water amounts as the plants grow.